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Offlinedankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Male


Registered: 03/02/11
Posts: 11
Loc: Unknown
Last seen: 2 years, 9 months
Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods * 1
    #666645 - 04/18/13 07:18 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

Hi everyone this is MY post from another site that I brought over here injoy

GROW SYSTEM METHODS
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UNDER CURRENT:



Current Culture H2O brings you the revolutionary Under Current modular hydroponic system. This invention breaks new ground in the world of hydroculture. The Under Current combines the Deep Water Culture technique with our patent pending Sub-Current Culture method to create a truly unique style of plant cultivation.

This innovative application circulates literally hundreds of gallons of solution per hour beneath plant roots. An inline Danner Mag Drive pump provides peripheral negative pressure by thrusting nutrients back to a return module (Epicenter). From this point the solution is drawn from module to subsequent module, causing a type of perpetual fluid motion. 8 gallon growth modules are interconnected via 2" conduit, allowing nutrients unobstructed passage through the plants root zone.

The Under Current supercharges the solution with dissolved oxygen, creating a hyper aerobic condition ideal for beneficial microorganisms. Constant, 24/7 nutrient circulation ensures that pH and EC are uniform throughout the entire system. Each Under Current includes the powerful D.W.C Aeration Kit.This convenient kit enables growers to use the deep water culture method in conjunction with our patent pending Sub-Current Culture application.

● Hybrid Deep Water Culture /Sub-Current Culture method

● Provides unmatched dissolved oxygen levels

● 8 gallon growth module allows for maximum root development

● Circulates hundreds of gallons of solution per hour, keeping mineral/oxygen ratio consistent throughout system

● Grows huge ”specimen” type hydroponic plants

● Perfect for greenhouse or H.I.D. lighting foot prints

● Super charged oxygen levels ensure that beneficial microbes flourish

The Under Current is the industries first and only pump driven, recirculating, Modular Sub-Current Culture system. Designed specifically to accommodate H.I.D. lighting foot prints, each systems appropriate pairing is as follows... 4 site (600 watt), 4XL (1000watt), 6 site (1000 watt), 6XL (2x600 watt), 8 site (2x 600 watts), 8XL (2x1000 watt), 12 site (3x600 watt or 2x1000 watt) and 12XL (3x1000 watt).

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EBB AND FLOW:



Much like NFT and other methods for that matter Flood and Drain has come a long way from it's origins with people adapting all sorts of styles to achieve the main principle of flooding a tray and allowing it to drain out. For this tutorial though we will stick to the traditional implementation and allow you to work from there.
One area where flood and drain stands out as different is that in many methods is the fact that water and nutrients are introduced to the root system from beneath instead of from the top allowing the root zone to flood to a predetermined and controlled level and is then allowed to drain back into the reservoir. This is all controlled by a pump, timer and a drain/overflow that run on an alternating cycle , the pump runs for whatever period of time you allocate for it allowing it to reach the desired water level , with the overflow handling any "extra water" that may go through in that time and then the system is given enough time to drain out before refilling again.

Helpful system design tips
Ensure to use quality hardware and filters as failure to do so can mean a fast downward spiral should issues occur because of this it can also be advisable to have a backup of certain items like water and air pumps you certainly have more time than with some systems though it's not advised to run the gauntlet in my experience
Step one size up in diameter for your overflow than you have in place for your drain , this will ensure that even with the pressure of the pump pushing through water if anything goes wrong your system won't overflow
It is advisable to use some form of netting or protection around your drains and inlets to avoid medium and or roots blocking up the zones
Ensure to use filters on your feed lines to keep the system free from waste solids
A centrifugal pump is recommended if you intend to use the same hole for your intake as your drain the use of other pump styles without some form of pressure release will cause them to lockup or break from ware,
Ensure to allow suitable medium volume for the desired plant/s sizes

Suitable mediums : Clayballs, Lavarocks

Advantages

● The constant flooding action helps to avoid a rapid build up of salts in the medium bed

●Provides an oxygen rich environment for the roots as stale air is pushed away when flooding and fresh drawn in as the draining occurs

● Lower water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems and some other hydroponic systems

Disadvantages

● Unable to easily inspect roots for issues

● Pump or power failure can mean loss of your crop over as little as a day or two

●Higher medium costs than many hydro systems as there is a bed to generally fill

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DWC/RDWC:


DWC:


RDWC:


There is quite a variation to the types of DWC systems out there, some are designed as tub systems with several plants sharing the same tub , whilst others are more like a satellite system layout with one control bucket and as many satellite buckets as is required , ( for the sake of less confusion we will be referring to tubs & buckets as buckets throughout the rest of this section ) .
Despite there small difference they all follow the same basic rule of thumb, like aeroponics a net pot is used to suspend the plants roots into the buckets however where things are different in DWC is that the roots are left to "swim" in the water inside the bucket itself instead of being sprayed as a mist which naturally means that each bucket contains a higher level of water ( see linked example system) . To effectively achieve this and to keep levels of oxygen up in the water an air stone is placed in the bucket , this keeps each plant's root system in an oxygen rich environment allowing it to optimize growth and food usage.
Usage of the water all depends on the system design , in some designs your control bucket is simply used to top-up water that is used in the tubs doing so passively , where as in other systems a pump is used to actively push water into each bucket , in these configurations a drain pipe is used to push any overflow back to the reservoir. The second of these methods is often preferred as it provides a constant mix of fresh water to the roots and where a chiller or heater is going to be used the system is kept in balance instead of heating up or cooling down in dead spots

Advantages

•Provides an oxygen rich environment for the roots

•One of the most rapid growing methods

•Low water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems

•Easy access to check on root system

•Easy to sterilize and clean the system

•Low medium costs

•No large amounts of medium to dispose of

Disadvantages

•Pump failure in an incorrectly designed system can result in the loss of plants in a matter of hours particularly in warm weather, however if planned out properly you are able to put in a few days to a week safeguard in most conditions

•High sensitivity to water temperature which can mean in summer that a chiller is needed in some areas in summer

•Need for regular water dumps and water changes are needed to avoid rapid occurring buildups.

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NFT:



NFT has come a long way from it's origins , traditionally speaking NFT is a completely medium free system though these days is often done as a hybrid system sometimes implementing clay balls or rock wool to fill the channels to give more compensation for water temperature and/or nutrient fluctuation.. All these variations still mostly follow the same principles. Typically the roots sit suspended in long slightly sloped irrigation channels , with nutrient rich water introduced to the raised end allowing a natural flow over theroot system in the form of a thin layer of water to the lower end of the channel where the water is returned to the reservoir to be reused again. Feed schedules are sometimes run in 15 min on 15 min off intervals however the traditional method is to keep a continual flow.

Helpful system design tips

•In order to ensure good drainage the channels need to be suitably sloped as seen in the example image below

•Channels must be wide enough to cater for the developing root mass that will happen through the grow

•Rectangle channels have a greater base surface area than cylinders allowing better access to the flow of water for the root system and because of this surface area increase are less likely to block as the root mass grows

•To avoid solid impurities it is advised that you run some form of in-line filter or filter material both at the point where the water comes into the system as-well as your return lines

•Use a heater in your reservoir to ensure a stable water temperature

Suitable mediums : Clayballs, Rockwool, Lavarocks, None

Advantages

•Low water and nutrient consumption

•The option to use no medium gives easy access to the root system visually

•Little to No medium cost

•Relatively easy to clean and sterilize

•No large amounts of medium to dispose of

Disadvantages

•Pump failure can result in the loss of plants in a matter of hours

•Not suitable for plants with large taproots

•Quite susceptible to temperature fluctuation problems

•Less suitable in area's with naturally high salt levels in the water as levels will gradually increase.

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Aeroponics:



Aeroponics is a method of growing in which the root system is left to freely suspend in a light proof reservoir. Nutrients and water are introduced in the form of a fine mist ( fog ) created from spray jets/nozzles and a high pressure water pump which generally operates 24 hours a day. The plants themselves sit in net pots filled with clayballs or lavarock , which are in place to give the plant an initial anchor to the system as well as keep the root area dark. Although it is considered one of the newer methods of hydroponics it is often considered the fastest growing methods when measuring the vegetative period of growth like all good things though it is not without it's downsides, and unfortunately in the case of aeroponics what could take a week to show itself and badly effect your plants in some systems could take as little as a day or two to take hold in an aeroponic setup for this reason it is not necessarily the best option for a first time grower though with certain precautions and constant monitoring and dedication even a new grower can achieve good result.

Helpful system design tips

•Ensure to use quality hardware and filters as failure to do so can mean a fast downward spiral should issues occur because of this it can also be advisable to have a backup of certain items like water and air pumps

•To avoid solid impurities it is advised that you run some form of in-line filter or filter material both at the point where the water comes into the system as-well as any return lines though they are less commonly found in aeroponic designs

•Using a heater and or chiller where suitable in your reservoir to ensure a stable water temperature can go along way to a successful grow , some areas have no need for either whilst other areas demand one or both at various times of the year to keep the water within the desired range of 22-24 degrees Celsius

•Make sure that you choose a suitably sized reservoir for the number of plants your looking to grow keeping in mind that you want to avoid the spray heads from becoming entangled and blocked the container also needs to be lightproof to avoid algae growth and other rot issues associated with light leaks in the root zone

•Food grade plastic is strongly suggested for your reservoir aswell as any tubs as they do not corrode and it is easy to attach fittings where needed to them ( it sucks pulling your hair out with a contamination issue as it's often the last thing you consider when you encounter issues at the time)
Suitable mediums : Clayballs, Lavarocks, None

Advantages

•Provides an oxygen rich environment for the roots

•Widely considered the most rapid growing method

•Low water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems

•Easy access to check on root system

•Easy to sterilize and clean the system

•Low medium costs

•No large amounts of medium to dispose of

Disadvantages

•Pump failure can result in the loss of plants in a matter of hours particularly in warm weather

•Spray nozzles have a tendency to block up so regular cleaning and the use of in-line filters on your lines is strongly recommended

•High sensitivity to water temperature which can mean in summer that a chiller is needed in some areas in summer

•Need for regular water dumps and water changes are needed to avoid rapid occurring buildups

•Not really a method recommended for first time growers as issues can occur rapidly leaving less time to fix the problem

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WICK SYSTEM:



The wick growing method is considered to be the most basic and easiest to setup hydroponic growing system. There are many styles of wicks but they all surround a principle of having a wick to automatically draw water up as needed by the plant.

Water and nutrients are provided by the wick to the medium on a needs basis which allows your cannabis plant to feed as required with the wick automatically re-hydrating the medium as it needs.

Wick systems are generally setup using one of the more absorbent growing mediums like a perlite/vermiculite mix, coco or soil etc. The the wick does it's job quite slowly and relies on medium hydrating medium so when attempting to use mediums such as clayballs , or straight perlite you will find a very uneven hydration pattern which will effect feeding.

Another popular wick growing system is simply to use the growing medium alone as your wick; this wick growing method can be found in practically every self watering pots on the market which implement it as seen in Image (b) above.

Helpful system design tips

•Use suitable medium to ensure proper drawing of water from reservoir. This also gives you a wider time frame to catch problems should any occur.

•Ensure Water solution is properly aerated by the use of an air pump in your reservoir.

•If using self watering pots many recommend also adding a stone into each pots catchment area where possible

•Flush medium regularly to avoid salt build up ( this is a rare occasion water your wick system from the top )

•Avoid ropes made from synthetic materials such as nylon as they don't absorb water or salt based nutrients aswell as most natural fabrics like cotton or hemp

Suitable mediums: perlite / vermiculite mix, coco, rock wool or soil

Advantages

•No need for pumps as wick will handle the automatic feeding

•Low Maintenance

•Low water and nutrient consumption

•Minimal setup and running cost

•Easy to clean and sterilize

Disadvantages

•Less suitable in area's with naturally high salt levels in the water as levels will gradually increase

•With little to check on and a total reliability on the wick doing it's job when problems do happen they are often not seen for a while , this can be minimized by simply getting in your room to check on things more than just to top up your plants.

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DRIP SYSTEM:



With the drip hydroponics growing system, the plants are again in their own tray, separate from the nutrient reservoir. A pump pushes nutrient solution through many small tubes, which feed each plant from the top. Different emitters can be placed on the end of each tube to make the drip slower or faster.

Once again, a faster draining medium (like clay pellets) will need faster dripping emitters (or more of them per plant). Slower draining media (like rockwool) would use slower dripping emitters.

The standard media for drip systems is rockwool, although clay pellets and lava chips are also sometimes used. Straight perlite should work well in this system also, although I've never tried it myself.

The flow rate is difficult to control on a drip system, and the emitters are famous for clogging. These problems are even worse when you try to make your own drip system. You will probably spend a lot of money and have a poorly working system if you try to build a homemade drip system (I know this from personal experience).

Furthermore, organic nutrients are full of small particles that ALWAYS seem to mess up the drip emitter. If you are trying to do organic hydroponics, this is not the system for you.

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HEMPEY BUCKET:



The Hempy Bucket is a passive hydoponic system developed by an Australian known as hempy in the early 1980s. First published in 2002, it has quickly proven to be an effective method of cultivation has out performed other hydroponic systems to quickly become a global phenomena.I like the hempy bucket because of its simplicity and the price of the system (ITS FREE) to make and has no moving parts that can fail and once the plant has started its root system you can basically water and forget it for 2 days or 3 depending on temps and you can grow any strain from sativa to indica in it.

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Global Bucket (similar to Earthbox):



Sub-irrigated planter (SIP) is a generic name for a special type of planting box used in container gardening and commercial landscaping. A SIP is any method of watering plants where the water is introduced from the bottom, allowing the water to soak upwards to the plant through capillary action. It is possible to automate the watering and thus popular with professional landscapers in buildings or urban settings. SIP's are available as products, under brand names such as Planter Technology (commercial) and EarthBox (consumer), or as do-it-yourself projects made from plastic buckets and boxes.

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FOGPONICS:


Fogponics is a form of aeroponics that mists the roots with a nutrient and oxygen rich "fog". Inside the root chamber of the fogponic system is an ultrasonic fogger that sits at a depth in a float. Ultrasonic foggers operate by oscillating at a frequency of 2MHZ or two million vibrations per second. The nutrient rich water water converts into a "fog" with water particle sizes of 3-5 microns.With the intake openings on roots ranging from 5-100 microns in size. This "fog" is suppose to be the ultimate delivery system to the roots for optimum nutrient uptake.

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BIO BUCKET'S:


Description – The Bio-Buckets is a Recirculating Hydroponics System, that exchanges the water/nutrients 7 to 10 times an hour in each bucket, depending on the size of your grow also consist of a remote-reservoir {separate} that is highly active that generates it’s own oxygen by water-fall.

How it works – the Bio-Buckets work by using lava rocks as it’s media to harbor the live beneficial bacterium which lives in the pores of the lava rock.

Benefits are – some of the fastest and healthiest growing plants that you have ever seen: uses no added air, and no reservoir change-outs, stable ph levels in most cases, and can run at higher temps than a normal hydro system, with no root-rot, I have been growing for little over two yours now in the Bio-Buckets and I have never had root-rot!! That means that you save tons of money remember what that was!! My friends that get my Bio-Buds can tell no different from soil, to my hydro Bio-Buds, just a better way of growing all the way around imo. One could say that it is the only hydroponics system that has an Immune System Anti-Viral Support Matrix.

Drawbacks are – I don’t know if this is a drawback or not, but you best be prepared to deal with the massive growth of this system, vertical and horizontal.

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EARTHBOX:



self watering container is a container that has a water reservoir built in. This reservoir waters the plants sometimes for several days. These containers can also contain a fertilizer band to feed the plants for the season. This makes the process of growing almost any flower or vegetable very easy to do and is very productive. Another advantage is it can be placed somewhere where there is no garden such as a deck or patio.

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RUN TO WASTE:


In a run to waste system the water is pumped from a main reservoir to the plant root system , the excess water and nutrients is then simply run off into the ground , catchment tray , or waste bucket. Though a less cost effective method of growing it does provide a more constant stability as with each watering the same balance of nutrients is guaranteed without any guess work , pH fluctuation issues are also less of a problem as the water is " fresh" at each watering.

It isn't without it's downsides aswell though , because of this fresh water and nutrient feed sometimes as many as 5 times a day ALLOT of water and nutrient can be potentially wasted. It is therefore up to the grower to choose a suitable method of growing that isn't going to hurt the wallet or the environment too badly , whilst still allowing for the advantages that Run to waste provides.

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SATELLITE SYSTEM:


Satellite systems are one of your more flexible medium wise and many people have added their own variations to the basic concept but like in the other cases we have discussed most lead back to the same basic rules and principles . The system itself is made up of a reservoir and any required number of separate pots which are what are referred to as your satellites.

Your the first of your pots within each "satellite" are top fed and contain many drain-holes in their base to allow proper drainage , Each of these pots are sat inside of a second pot which is used to catch the excess water and nutrients , returning them to the reservoir via a drainage hole/line which relies on gravity to take the water away because of this it is important to elevate your pots from the highest reservoir water level.

With the variation of mediums used for this style of system it is impossible to give a blanket recommendation on the regularity of feeding, some mediums will require a 15 minute period every few hours , whilst others require only a few minutes a day. The best idea is to get a recommendation from someone who has walked that path before and can maybe give you at least a starting point for experimenting.

Suitable mediums : Pretty much anything except for soil and rock wool

Advantages

•Very flexible system as pots can be added and taken away as needed without disturbing the remaining pots in the system

•Larger pots can be used for plants requiring more root space whilst being able to simultaneously run smaller pots when suitable

•Easy to reposition individual plants

•Each pot keeps each plant in a more isolated environment meaning things like root diseases bugs etc don't spread too easily or quickly

•Even with pump failures you are given a fair amount of time to realize and fix the issue ( anywhere from a few days to a week depending on the medium choice )

•Lower water and nutrient consumption in comparison to run to waste systems and some other hydroponic systems

Disadvantages

•Unable to easily inspect roots for issues

•Relying solely on top feeding to supply nutrients and water , tends to channel the water downward through the medium where density is lowest which can leave the side top area more dried out

•Higher medium costs than many hydro systems

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Edited by dankakanat (04/18/13 09:37 PM)


Post Extras: Print Post  Remind Me! Notify Moderator
Offlinedankakanat
Never a failure, Always a lesson
Male


Registered: 03/02/11
Posts: 11
Loc: Unknown
Last seen: 2 years, 9 months
Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: dankakanat] * 1
    #666652 - 04/18/13 07:58 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

Growing Methods

BOG - box of green

A variation for the SCROG is the Box of Green Method or BOG. This technique is generally the same with SCROG but with an addition of a vertical screen placed around the perimeter of the plant medium. Bog for ``box of green'', was first coined by Kunta and further developed by chthonic and several other growers. Added to the horizontal screen are vertical screens around the perimeter. Either additional plants are used at the edges, or the scrog field plants are grown longer, but either way, the additional foliage is allowed to grow up the outside of the vertical screen, taking advantage of wasted air space above the field. It also allows plants at the edge of the field to get into the circle of intensity from the bulb.

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LST - Low Stress Training



LST is making your plant do something you want.The best part about LST, is the key "Low Stress". It doesn't stress your plant nearly as bad as other training methods exe. Topping. All LST involves doing is the tieing or staking down of a plants top/uppermost growth shoots in order to get more top growths. This bends the plant over and spreads the light to the undermost parts of your plants. When you do this, it makes the undergrowth bush out as well. However, spreading the light isn't what makes your plant bush out.

-Pros

Does not stress plants as much
Reversible (for the most part)
Forgivable
Great for micro grows
Fun to do as it's more involved

-Cons

Requires additional parts
Takes more time
Possibly less fun to do as it's more involved (just depends on you)
Requires more plant manhandling

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HST - High Stress Training



Super-cropping, topping, chopping, decapitating, crushing the herd, bending the stem, FIM, call it what you will: it's high stress training (HST). Any time you are physically damaging the plant to train it, you are causing it to undergo a series of chemical and horomonal changes that will result in what everyone is looking for: more budsites on your plant.

-Pros

Quick
Easy
Requires no additional parts (except to cause damage)
Great for larger grows

-Cons

Creating possible sites for infection
Can backfire if the plant reacts poorly
Mostly irreversible
Mistakes are more costly
Possibly slower recovery time

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FIM - Fuck I Missed



Some growers are now using the "FIM technique" as a way to get more growing shoots per each time you top. The strategy involves cutting off 90% of the growing shoot and leaving 10% intact. From that 10%, up to 8 more branches can emerge. This is useful for those growing SCROG style or those wanting lots of clones from a mother plant.

-Pros

Potential to produce many bud-sites
More careful methods
Can keep canopy level the same
Great for small grows

-Cons

Large risk of failure - if you cut wrong, you won't get the results you're looking for
Larger risk of infection - more exposed foliage
More time consuming
More difficult

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SOG - Sea Of Green



is the theory of harvesting lots of small plants, matured early to get the fastest production of budsavailable. Instead of growing a few plants for a longer period of time, in the same space many smaller plants are grown that mature faster and in less time. Thus, less time is required between crops. This is important to you when the electricity bill comes each month. One crop can be started while another is maturing, and a continuous harvest, year round can be maintained. 4 plants per square foot will be a good start for seedlings. 1 plant per square foot will allow plenty of room for each plant to grow a large top cola, but will not allow for much bottom branching. This is OK since indoors, these bottom branches are always shaded anyway, and will not grow very well unless given additional light and space.

-Pros

Easier to grow more strains
Clone friendly
Can potentially mean increased yield

-Cons

Higher plant count
Not good for all strains
More time-consuming

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SCROG - Screen Of Green



A screen is the main character of scrog. It is usually made of wire or something sturdy enough to hold back the growing canopy. This wire should have some holes in it about 2x2inches in size so that the plant mater can easily grow up through the wire and be supported by it. The wire is secured between the grow medium and the lamp at a distance determined by the size of your lamp. The plants grow through the screen about 3-4 inches and then are pulled back under and spread out where YOU want them to grow.

-Pros

Easy to train once setup
Screens can be easily reused
Can be done for large applications w/out requiring much time
Cool as hell to look at
Easy to harvest

-Cons

Requires setup
Hard to transport or move from pot to pot
Requires a bit more learning
Requires planning ahead of time for best results

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V-SCROG - Virtical Screen Of Green



A V-ScrOG growing is another type of ScrOG in which the screen is in vertical manner instead of the usual horizontal in ScrOG method. This aim is to grow it V (vertically again the same principle is use in ScrOG method. However using this kind of method may give you a problem pertaining to the top dominance. This condition of a top dominance only mean that bud located at the top most part of the V ScrOG will get more benefited in their growth rather than those placed below. A solution to this difficulty would be is to train the plants sideways upward; what they call the spiral training. By doing this spiral training for cannabis the top dominance may be affected so you have to be exact.

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TOPPING



Topping the plant means that you remove the main shoot located on the stem. By doing so you will encourage the plant to grow into a bush with a lot of shoots, instead of one big main shoot that you get on the untopped “christmas tree”. The reason why the plant behaves this way is because the center of growth control, the auxin transport system, is located in the main shoot apex. Sensory pigments in the leafs inform the plant of various things like how much light a leaf at a certain location gets and so on, which then enables the plant to transport energy and growth hormones to various areas. The mechanism behind the auxin transport system is quite complex, involving various messenger molecules, growth hormones and specific proteins that trigger everything from vegetative growth to flowering in the plant. Some aspects of this mechanism are still unknown and under scientific research. What is known however is that the centre of control for this mechanism is located in the main shoot apex and that it also relies on information from the sensory pigments located in the leafs. By removing the main shoot, the communication between the leafs and main shoot ends and the result is that the plant assigns the next shoots in line to the job. This means that the smaller shoots on the node beneath the cut starts growing faster and gain height. These shoots usually grow very slowly when the plant is left untopped. It is probably best to top the plant at night as then most of the hormones have been sent to the roots, which means that there is a smaller chance of the plant being stunted after the main shoot has been removed.

-Pros

Quick
Easy
Does not require tools
Great for large grows

-Cons

Less budsite potential than the FIM technique
Longer recovery time

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SUPER CROPPING



There is also a technique called super cropping, which involves crushing of the soft inner hurd of the stem in order to gain some control over the plant, but mainly to increase health, potency and yield. This soft inner hurd is made up of cellulose and forms a network of vascular tissue that can be divided into two groups, namely the xylem and phloem. These two are responsible for the transport of water and nutrients along the stem.Breaking the plant's inner walls will cause it to rebuild. The plant will rebuild the tissue stronger than before and this is why this technique can increase the harvest. While rebuilding the tissue the plant expands on the network of cellulose, which is why the stem grows thicker than before at the point where it was crushed. Think of it this way; instead of having a two way street for water and nutrient transport, you now have a multi-laned super highway. If you pinch the main stem it will grow very thick, which will benefit the entire plant. Pinching the side branches will allow you to have more control over how she takes shape. Thanks to the bend on the newly crushed branch you can now redirect it in any way that you see fit. This will also allow more light to reach the lower buds. Since the branch will grow stronger at the breaking point, it will also be able to support more weight. The branches that are closest to the breaking point will also grow stronger in order to compensate for the injury.

-Pros

Not as stressful as removing plant parts
Less worry of failure
Not as prone to infection
Quick and easy

-Cons

Somewhat inprecise
Can have a learning curve
Changes for different strains

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LOLLIPOPING



When the plant is left to grow as it chooses, it usually has more branches than it has the energy to support. This means that a lot of energy is wasted on smaller branches, especially the lower ones. The energy need is so spread out that in extreme cases flowering takes a very long time as the plant tries to supply energy evenly to every location. By removing some of the less important and weaker branches, you can ensure that the larger branches produce a greater amount of high quality bud. The bud on the lower branches that receive less light usually end up as single “pop corn” buds that never truly mature, so it is best to remove them at an early stage. You become the “investment planner” for you plants. Observe the growth and remove any branch that has long internodes (the space between the nodes) and any branch that stays significantly lower than the main shoots. These branches will get very little light and they will also have a hard time to find they way up to the well lit area. Most of the time I end up removing almost all the growth underneath the scrog net, I only leave the fan leafs intact until the plant drops them by itself after the energy has been recovered. When it comes to removing leaf material opinions vary, some remove leafs and others, like myself, chose not to. I have tried both methods and can honestly say that there is no positive effect really from removing leafs. Keep in mind that fan leafs are the primary location for photosynthesis and that the plant also stores surplus energy in them. By removing the leafs you do double harm, you handicap the plants ability to produce vital energy and you also remove the energy that has already been stored for future use. Furthermore, although it cannot be observed with the naked eye, light actually passes through the leafs and that is why some of the lower growth stay green throughout the entire grow. It is better to tuck or tie the leafs under the canopy so that light reaches more bud sites, or alternatively cut the leafs in half.

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DEFOLIATING



Lets start by defining "defoliation" in the context of this technique. The term has negative connotations as Cannabis has been the target of defoliation by the Feds using Paraquat chemical defoliants. This is not what this is about.This technique is about leaf removal by hand. It is employed to relieve shading in crowded conditions. It is a substitute to the popular technique of removing lower branches.Defoliation encourages branching in vegging plants in the same way as nipping the leader. The benefit of this technique is that the leader is retained to continue to create branches. It also shortens nodal length creating a more compact specimen.This is how the following plants are capable of yielding as much as 12 oz. in an allotted space measuring 32" cubed.Leaves are removed starting in veg stage when they are about 6" tall with a couple of sets of fans. Leaves are removed again every 2-3 weeks or whenever things get a little shady.3 decades of experience with this technique reveal that bud growth benefits more from light exposure than whether the corresponding fan leaf is present.The idea with this method is to not remove any bud sites like in the aforementioned technique of lower branch removal. Bud sites produce bud. Do not remove. This method allows light to penetrate to all bud sites, not just the top buds.This technique should not be done on plants that have not been prepared by defoliation from the beginning.

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Monster Cropping



This method involves taking clones of flowering plants and then forcing them to root and re-veg, which eventually leads to very bushy plants with a great number of branches and nodes. I named this technique Monster Cropping because that is what you will get, real monster plants, but also because this method was introduced to the scene by a grower named greenmonster714. He in turn credits a grower named Feral for discovering this technique.Taking clones from flowering plants goes against all that has been said about cloning cannabis and might therefore seem a bit confusing at first but the science behind the technique is sound and the results speak for themselves. You start by taking clones of a plant that is about 21 days into flowering. This seems to be the best time to do it but you can also takes clones at a later stage with the same results. The lower branches make better clones as they have not yet become rigid and will also root faster and more easily than say the top cola. Move the new cutting into a glass of water and let it sit for a while in order to make sure that no air gets into the vascular system during handling, as this can be fatal to your new plant. You should make the cut so that it runs along the stem as this will increase the surface area for water and possibly nutrient uptake, depending on what method of cloning you use. Personally, I have found that using a small hydroponic setup or a propagation bubbler is by far the best way to clone cannabis plants.

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Jungle of Green (JOG)



Jogging your plant and Higher yields! Jogging your plant or the JOG method (Jungle of green) is an easy way to increase yields especially in spaces limited in height. I would start by saying this method takes a little more work but it’s worth it. So, I would recommend you start with clones for this growing method, because you will be starting out with females.The goal here is to create a canopy of bud growth that’s all the same distance from the light. The advantage in growing this way means increased bud size and weight……So you get more bud for your time and effort!!!

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ACE - Autumn Colour Effect (idk if this is a true method)


probably the most common advanced growing technique that's not general practice amongst weed growers, would have to be the 'Autumn Colour Effect' or the 'ACE' technique, as I like to call it. This is where the Nitrogen is cut off from a flowering plant in mid to late flowering (depending on phenotype) so that the plant extracts all the remaining Nitrogen from it's leaves and puts it into the bud, this hugely reduces chlorophyll level in the plants leaves and buds by the time the plant is finished [which aids with good tasting, good burning weed] (cannabis, being an annual, does not require Nitrogen for the final leg of flowering, having to take it up, process it and motabilize it, hinders it's ability to put all its strength into the flowering process.To use the Autumn Colour Effect (ACE) to its full potential, you have to really know the pheno you're growing (having grown clones of it multiple times) so you know how long it takes to finish, what it likes/dislikes, what it can or can't handle etc.This is a common technique amongst elite growers (not the elite on this site that pay for that status, the true elite, like those who showed me it - and I was sus at first but they proved its benefits too me with out too much difficulty.Too do the ACE technique properly you have to grow Soiless or Hydro, or any other system where you have control over which nutrients the plants do or don't receive at which time during the grow.


Edited by dankakanat (04/18/13 08:06 PM)


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Invisiblenight trainV
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: dankakanat]
    #666653 - 04/18/13 08:12 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

Lots of good info in there.


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Offlinedankakanat
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: dankakanat]
    #666654 - 04/18/13 08:21 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

CLONER SYSTEMS

Aero Cloner



cuttings have unrestricted access to oxygen, water and nutrients so they experience rapid root development. Keep the water temperature between 75f and 80f the higher temps will cause fungus, lower temps will cause stasis, stalled or failed clones.

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Bubble Cloner



A bubble cloner works on the concept of having an air pump connected to a air stone within the chamber of water and having the water 1 inch from the bottom of clones the air stone makes small bubbles witch pop when they hit the surface of water witch mists the bottom of clones with small particles of water witch give high oxygen to clones witch result in better clone rates.

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Fog Cloner



Fog is a form of aeroponics that mists the roots with a nutrient and oxygen rich "fog". Inside the root chamber of the fog cloner system is an ultrasonic fogger that sits at a depth in a float. The nutrient rich water water converts into a "fog" with water particle sizes of 3-5 microns.

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Mistaponic Cloner




For rapid crop production, optimal root oxygenation and unbelievable growth rate it works on a mixture of pressurized oxygen and water (patented) is emitted by a mist generator, resulting in snow white roots and sturdy foliage. No external lines, no pumps that heat the growing chamber, no misters that may clog, no stuff hanging around. Neat, clean and effective.

"Maximum Yield Magazine June 2012"
Introducing the Revolutionary Mistaponic Cloner

The patented Mistaponic Cloner is the latest innovation to storm the gardening world. What makes the Mistaponic Cloner truly unique is the technologically-advanced Vortex Mist Generator. The Vortex Mist Generator replaces the need for water pumps, air pumps, air stones or cooling fans. Carbon filtered oxygen is drawn into the mist generator, pressurized and intermixed with water. This highly oxygenated water is reduced to six microns and gently misted onto the clones. Misting the clones is much more effective then abrasive streams of water that can damage fragile adolescent roots. The end result is abundant, snow white roots with sturdy foliage—sheer cloning perfection. For more information visit your local hydroponics shop.



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Plant Tissue Culture Kit




With tissue culture you can grow your favorite plants in small glass and plastic containers in very small areas, saving space and light. Imagine cutting parts from your favorite plants and seeing them generate fresh shoots and roots before your eyes. The new plants explode with bushy growth energized by the nutrients and hormones. Instead of taking cuttings from a mother plant that requires lots of maintenance, space, and equipment, you can multiply plants in small self-contained glass jars. This eliminates the traditional the care and tending of mother plants and allows for an even greater bank of plant genetics in a smaller space; no need for watering/nutrients, eliminates bug and pest infestations, no HID lighting or ventilation required.


Why Micropropagation?
- Replaces Mother Plants
- No Bugs, Pest, or Care required
- Greater multiplication
- Super starts
- Vigorous, bushy plantlets
- Less space and light (eliminate your mother room)
- Unlock hidden genetics
- Jars make transportation easy and shippable
- Easy and fun


--------------------


Edited by dankakanat (04/18/13 09:31 PM)


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InvisibleMagashM
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: dankakanat]
    #666656 - 04/18/13 09:14 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

:thumbup: Good work :thumbup:


--------------------
All creatures tremble when faced with violence. All creatures fear death, all love life. If we can only see ourselves in others, then how could we possibly hurt another creature?


:growingweed: Join us at the Growery! :growingweed:


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Offlinedankakanat
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: Magash]
    #666657 - 04/18/13 09:27 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

thx bro :bigjoint:


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InvisibleDeadkndys420
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: Magash]
    #666659 - 04/18/13 09:27 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

This "Micropropagation" is very intresting.

:strokebeard:


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OfflinePoloDown
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: Deadkndys420]
    #666732 - 04/19/13 01:31 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

Wow! I think you just about put every method of growing.  Fascinating.

Thanks for this post


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Offlinejondub
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: PoloDown]
    #666739 - 04/19/13 02:07 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

Added to research. :thumbup:


--------------------
pass it on


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Offlinedankakanat
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Re: Diffrent Grow Systems/Grow Methods [Re: PoloDown]
    #666797 - 04/19/13 10:43 PM (3 years, 7 months ago)

Thx I have also made an all-in one extraction list I still have to bring over here


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