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OfflineKilluminati_420
Swimmin in Cyans soon
Male


Registered: 09/25/09
Posts: 154
Loc: Oregon Coast
Last seen: 6 years, 3 months
Feminized Seeds From Hermy?
    #402924 - 04/16/10 07:14 PM (6 years, 7 months ago)

My brother just did his first grow, and he went through a FEW problems with the ph, stupid spider mites, leaf mold, sprayed accidentaly by someone with Awesome Kleaner, ect.:facepalm: ....At first, they were 3 female clones, (Purple Frost, Shalain, Dead Man Walking)...And through all the STRESS, the purple frost went hermy because the light fell on it :lol::facepalm: ....All three survived, and the purple frost pollinated the shalain and DMW with seeds because it went hermy.....And im pretty sure the seeds are FEMINIZED right? If they are, does the purple frost pollinate itself with feminized seeds, or are the hermy plants (purple frost's) seeds hermy genetics :shrug: Any one know?


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            Amanitas for Trade this Oct-Dec^
"Dont gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver and gold" -Bob Marley


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OfflineDieselB
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Registered: 02/10/10
Posts: 1,156
Last seen: 1 year, 8 months
Re: Feminized Seeds From Hermy? [Re: Killuminati_420]
    #402925 - 04/16/10 07:34 PM (6 years, 7 months ago)

More than likely the seeds are going to have hermaphroditic tendencies.


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If you ain't smokin' dro, you're smokin' reggie. :shrug:


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OfflineKilluminati_420
Swimmin in Cyans soon
Male


Registered: 09/25/09
Posts: 154
Loc: Oregon Coast
Last seen: 6 years, 3 months
Re: Feminized Seeds From Hermy? [Re: DieselB]
    #403036 - 04/17/10 03:03 AM (6 years, 7 months ago)

I thought that it would only pass on hermy pollen if its genetics are hermy from the get-go.....I read that if a guarunteed female gets stressed into hermy, the pollen will be feminized to other plants?


--------------------
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5Rw_1nRuu0


            Amanitas for Trade this Oct-Dec^
"Dont gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver and gold" -Bob Marley


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InvisibleDrGreenThumb
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Registered: 08/09/08
Posts: 487
Loc: Phish Tour Flag
Trusted Cultivator
Re: Feminized Seeds From Hermy? [Re: DieselB]
    #403055 - 04/17/10 07:57 AM (6 years, 7 months ago)

Quote:

DieselB said:
More than likely the seeds are going to have hermaphroditic tendencies.



^This. I am currently growing seeds from a self-pollinated hermie. The resulting seeds are feminized with a tendency to hermie.

The first strain I grew worked pretty well. I only had 2 hermie out of 11 plants. The strain I have going now are the same type of seeds but a different strain. 4 out of 10 hermied.

So in conclusion, YES, the seeds will be feminized but you have to very vigilant of hermies.


--------------------
“Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” -Dr. Seuss


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OfflineDungenessDank
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Registered: 05/06/08
Posts: 9,372
Loc: PNW
Last seen: 3 years, 6 months
Re: Feminized Seeds From Hermy? [Re: Killuminati_420]
    #403078 - 04/17/10 10:09 AM (6 years, 7 months ago)

Quote:

Killuminati_420 said:
I thought that it would only pass on hermy pollen if its genetics are hermy from the get-go.....I read that if a guarunteed female gets stressed into hermy, the pollen will be feminized to other plants?




All cannabis plants are capable of producing male flowers, the difference is only how much stress the individual plant can take before doing so.


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OfflineKilluminati_420
Swimmin in Cyans soon
Male


Registered: 09/25/09
Posts: 154
Loc: Oregon Coast
Last seen: 6 years, 3 months
Re: Feminized Seeds From Hermy? [Re: DungenessDank]
    #403182 - 04/17/10 02:39 PM (6 years, 7 months ago)

GreenThumb, you said your hermy pollinated itself right? Well what happened is the purple frost that went hermy, had the whole 1000watt MH light and casing fall directly on it, making it go hermy, and it pollinated the dead man walking with its hermy flowers....So....The seeds in the dmw are feminized, but will have some hermy genetics?.....How do people even feminize right then?


--------------------
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5Rw_1nRuu0


            Amanitas for Trade this Oct-Dec^
"Dont gain the world and lose your soul...Wisdom is better than silver and gold" -Bob Marley


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InvisibleDrGreenThumb
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Re: Feminized Seeds From Hermy? [Re: Killuminati_420]
    #403237 - 04/17/10 06:09 PM (6 years, 7 months ago)

The plants that were straight female should have seeds that have less of a tendency to herm than a self-pollinated plant. I'd say you're good to use them just be on the lookout. You'll get less hermies from them than you would male plants if you used regular seeds. I'm using mine and they grow great dope.

Apparently true feminized seeds are made using colloidal silver or STS treatments. Which I think are pretty much the same thing in essence.

It sounds to me like these treatments are basically stressing the plant to produce pollen. Which seems to me like the same thing as using pollen from a hermie, but I'm no expert.

I've also noticed around the net that many people who order a 10 pack of feminized seeds end up with a couple of hermies at the end. This is the same percentage of hermies that I'm getting from my seed. Kinda makes me wonder.

Here's a post Magash wrote up about making feminized seed.

Quote:

Magash said:
ok, here's how I do it.

First pick the mother plants that you want to target for gathering pollen. Take clones from them to be tested. Now stress test them (this is the biggest fuck up in Soma's method) with light, water, nutrients, many other ways and keep track of what your doing. Now the plants that show hermie traits or the bananas that Soma talks about are discarded. In other words the plants that Soma keeps the pollen are age stressed plants. These are the exact plants I myself would discard for the porpoise he keeps them for. Doing this is not a natural thing for the plants to do and can not be done properly organically.

Now that the strong mothers have been found clones are taken from them and treated with STS treatments.

STS treatments. I got this from Rez

Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.

The adjusted formula is as follows:

Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water

Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.

Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.


Application:

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidentally. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:

Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.




--------------------
“Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” -Dr. Seuss


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Cannabis, Marijuana, Ganja & Greens >> Cannabis Cultivation

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