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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Intake and exhaust
    #439223 - 06/29/10 10:48 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Hello guys, I'm setting up a grow room that's 450-520 cubic feet depending on if I tarp off the non useful area which I may not do.

So I saw this formula for calculating adequate exhaust and it said add 20% for a carbon scrubber, 5% for air cooled lights, 10-15% for non air cooled lights, 5% for co2 enrichment. The guide also said air exchanges every 3 minutes.

I think I want air exchanges every 1minute, and I want co2 enrichment but I'm going to do it via brewing so I don't think I add anything as I don't have a burner, and my lights are 600w so I think it's safe to say 10% as they produce way less heat per light.

So let's add this up
20% for carbon scrubber,
60% for non air cooled lights = 80% I'm going to call the room 500 cubic feet so 500 * 1.8 = 900 so this room would need 900CFM fan under these conditions.

I'm going to be using a 1140 Typhoon inline fan and a 996 CFM mountain air filter. How much intake do I need? I hear 1/4 - 1/2 intake is good to keep some negative pressure in the room but I'm told I also have the option of going passive intakes but don't know how I would approach this. Since I want minimal alterations to my rented place I'm going to try to dehinge the door or set up something near the door like a board in the doorframe and mount my intake fan in there. The exhaust is going to go out the window and I think I will disguise it with a junked AC. Don't be a fool if you want to do this, there are many electronics that can be stuck out your window that will look like an AC, such as microwaves and well that's all I got.

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OfflineDieselB
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: maryanne3087]
    #439291 - 06/29/10 12:58 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

No offense, but 'don't be a fool' and put a microwave out your window, any halfwit is gonna notice that there isn't a heat exchanger on the back of it and that its not an AC unit. You can go on Craigslist or your local classifieds and pick up an old used window unit for like $20..


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If you ain't smokin' dro, you're smokin' reggie. :shrug:

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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: DieselB]
    #439293 - 06/29/10 01:06 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

I never thought of that, I just thought my microwave's exhaust looked similar to most AC's

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Offlinetictacs
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: maryanne3087]
    #439309 - 06/29/10 02:28 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

hahaha.. dude.. really thats hilarious

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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: tictacs]
    #439327 - 06/29/10 03:12 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Laugh it up :frown:

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OfflineKilroy
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: maryanne3087]
    #439912 - 06/30/10 12:01 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Is not the reason we are all here is to help others with this love of ours and to keep people from making a mistake that could be at minimum costly with money and really costly by incarceration. tictacs you are only 2 days older than the one who posted the question. would you like it if other members did this to you


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Just smoke a bowl and get over your self
We are human beings first everything else is second
               

You can not hold anything I post against me for I am delusional

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Offlinefungi
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: Kilroy]
    #443910 - 07/09/10 06:59 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

That is one hell of a fan my friend. I have an 8" fan that moves 700+ CFM and it is quite loud. You might want some kind of ducting to reduce sound as it exits the window. If you live in a warm area, you can just mount a hose out the window like it is a portable AC unit.

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InvisibleHarry_Ba11sachM
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: maryanne3087]
    #443920 - 07/09/10 08:34 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

To be honest if you're planning on running CO2 enrichment then exhausting your air is just a waste of your money. You'll literally be throwing (or blowing) money out the window.  My advice would be to run this as a sealed room with CO2 (if you want I can outline how to do that a little better), OR skip the CO2 and just vent the hell out of the room. I think either option will give you fantastic results, but the venting might be cheaper (although a bit tougher because of how loud a 900CFM fan is going to be unless you invest in a duct muffler


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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: Harry_Ba11sach]
    #443933 - 07/09/10 09:07 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

I`ve been considering a sealed room but for an AC id`want to use a window style ac as I have a 12k BTU that`s just hanging around.

I dont know what I`d do for exhausting it though. Is exhausting a window ac completely necessary?

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InvisibleHarry_Ba11sachM
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: maryanne3087]
    #443934 - 07/09/10 09:12 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

There's no window in the room? Exhausting an AC unit is 100% necessary, they work by taking the heat out of your room and exchanging it to the outside air, if you're not venting that hot air anywhere then you're just burning a couple thousand watts of electricity for nothing.


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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: Harry_Ba11sach]
    #443936 - 07/09/10 09:16 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

There's a window.

I assume I need to scrub the room or treat it with Ozone constantly too?

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InvisibleHarry_Ba11sachM
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: maryanne3087]
    #443960 - 07/09/10 10:03 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

you shouldn't if it's a split AC. A lot of people run a scrubber like an hour a day just to keep the smell at reasonable levels but it's not 100% necessary. You're going to need a dehumidifier too though if you're running a sealed room


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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: Harry_Ba11sach]
    #443976 - 07/09/10 10:27 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Okay can you point out the essentials?

I'm trying to evaluate my options. One options I think is to run 2 x 8" Typhoon inline fans which are like 700cfm or whatever and have the exhaust treated with ozone. Since the Ozone generator I'm looking to get is inline and I'd rather not purchase two of them I think I'd get a one of those Y connectors to combine the two 8" ducts to a single 8" exhaust. I realize this would bottleneck the airflow but overall I think it's more than enough and one of my most economical choices.

Another option is to vent the room with the inline fans (air cooling the hoods same as the first option) and treating the room with ozone on a timer apparently in flower you only need 30minutes of exposure with 2-4hours off.

The last option is the sealed room or a semi sealed room with aircooled hoods with intake from another room which I think is too complicated and expensive at this point.

-Dehumidifier
-AC in window
-Co2 supplementation (burner - previously I would have just used brewing co2 for some supplemental co2 as I brew wine/beer)
- Scubber to keep odour down or the odd O3 treatment.

How many BTU per 1kw of light is the correct amount? I've heard 3 per 1kw is the mathematical amount and then add 10-15% because of the realisitic efficiency. I run 6*600w so I would assume 10k BTU is good and 12k BTU is good + extra safety. I know co2 burners produce heat and such but if it becomes a problem I'll just dim my lights until I can cool the room more.

Are there any specifics I need to know? Any "laws" for scrubbers/ozone for a sealed room?

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Offlinekyuzo
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: Harry_Ba11sach]
    #444231 - 07/09/10 05:14 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

what are the electricity costs like with cooling a sealed room?

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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: kyuzo]
    #444326 - 07/09/10 09:34 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

I hear 3000-4000 BTU per 1kw light.

So a 4kw room would be a 12 000 BTU ac which draws 1200+w

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Invisiblemaryanne3087
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: maryanne3087]
    #444700 - 07/10/10 10:50 PM (13 years, 8 months ago)

any pointers for a sealed room?

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InvisibleHarry_Ba11sachM
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Re: Intake and exhaust [Re: kyuzo]
    #444891 - 07/11/10 11:35 AM (13 years, 8 months ago)

Quote:

kyuzo said:
what are the electricity costs like with cooling a sealed room?




Pretty high if you're running open hoods. If the reflectors aren't air cooled then you're paying for electricity for lights, AC to cool those lights, AND the dehumidifier. It's far from the cheapest way to run, but it's damn effective if you have the cash.  Having closed and vented hoods is said to reduce the cost because it keeps the heat down but then you're paying for electricity to run those exhaust fans :shrug:

Maryanne; I'm pretty busy today but I'll try to come back with some pointers later for you


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