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First pick the mother plants that you want to target for gathering pollen. Take clones from them to be tested. Now stress test them (this is the biggest fuck up in Soma's method) with light, water, nutrients, many other ways and keep track of what your doing. Now the plants that show hermie traits or the bananas that Soma talks about are discarded. In other words the plants that Soma keeps the pollen are age stressed plants. These are the exact plants I myself would discard for the porpoise he keeps them for. Doing this is not a natural thing for the plants to do and can not be done properly organically.
Now that the strong mothers have been found clones are taken from them and treated with STS treatments.
STS treatments. I got this from Rez
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.
The adjusted formula is as follows:
Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water
Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.
Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidentally. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
Quote: FrozenReality said: Through my course of study I have come across information on making fem seeds in a way that involves non toxic or at least less toxic materials. It works very very well and I am yet to get a hermie from the seeds I made for my own personal use. The only thing I have against the process is I have seen numerous people develop a strain that they want to keep as is but the only seeds they have is female so they are stuck. The genetics will only get watered down from there unless they mix it with a male of a different strain but then they are back to square one. With that said here is the technique.
The technique I use involves colloidal silver. Its sold at health food stores as a cure all basically. the stuff that is sold is too low of a potency to work properly. First I'll describe how to make it and then how to use it.
Colloidal silver is made by electrolysis by passing a current through two silver electrodes suspended in distilled water.
The way I do this is I use a 12 volt 1.5 amp (1500 ma) ac to dc adapter. The average household probably has a box of these things laying around. Other reports show that 9 volt 600 ma ones will also work. Anyways you cut the end of this off and pull the 2 wires apart by about a foot. Strip about 1/4 inch of the coating off and solder an alligator clip to each piece of wire and then heat heatshrink over the exposed soldered wires.
At each end of the alligator clips you will need to clip on either a piece of fine silver wire (can be found online) or an old silver coin that has been cleaned of tarnish (can be found at hobby shops and such around town). Try to stay away from sterling silver, it is less pure.
In an open air enviroment, submerge the silver on both ends of the adapter into a glass quart jar of distilled water. Make sure only the silver is touching the water. If the clips or any other type of metal is touching the water during the process it will produce rust amongst other nasty stuff.
Now plug it in and let it sit for 12 hours (making sure to check on it regularly so you dont burn down the house or something.) I put plastic wrap over it to protect it from stuff floating in the air. After 12 hours you should have a jar full of a brownish/amber colored liquid with possibly some white/metalic gunk which is just some corrosion. You can filter this out through a tee shirt if you'd like but I never do.
This brown liquid is colloidal silver. As is it is safe for you to drink just like the health food store colloidal silver. But I wouldn't recommend it, since it is a bit stronger than the health food stuff and too much of it ingested could turn your skin blue after a lot of use
Anyways back on topic. Take this brown liquid and pour it inside a spray bottle (1 dollar at walmart.) Now you are ready to make femanised seeds.. well kinda. You need a female plant and right after it shows its sex you can give whole or part of it a good misting of colloidal silver 2-3 times a day for 1 week. Some people will do this all the way until it starts pollinating but Ive never done it for more than a week. If you do the entire plant the entire thing will start growing pollen sacks soon after and you can use this pollen to pollinate other female plants to produce femanised seeds. If you do only one branch of the plant then you could turn around and use the pollen from the plant on the rest of it.
I have done this quite a few times and am yet to end up with femanised seeds that hermie on their own and I have even done this a couple times from breeder femanized seeds that I wanted more of. If the plant already has the hermie genes in it though it would most likely show up at one point or another though.
With all that said if you want to skip the hole soldering alligator clips onto wire you could always wrap the wire around the silver as long as you make sure not to expose any of the water to non silver material.
I hope this helps you all with your adventures in breeding. Be safe.
I'll update this later on with pictures of my finished colloidal silver generator once I can find where I put the damn thing when I moved weeks ago.
Below is the CS generator
Below is Distilled water
Below is an empty jar
Fill jar with distilled water and put silver ends in the water making sure the metal of the alligator clips doesn't come in contact with the water.
Put some plastic wrap over it all to keep bugs out.
Plug it in and let it sit for 12 hours and.. colloidal silver!! Ready to be put in a spray bottle and sprayed on plants. 2-3 times a day for 2 weeks once first signs of sex appear.